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Helmsdale

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Helmsdale is a Village 69 miles north of Inverness, 51 miles south of John O Groats on the northeast coast of Scotland, on the North Coast 500 driving route. The village was laid out by the Sutherlands from 1814, partly to house Crofters they were forcing off their land.

Helmsdale is popular for the Emigrants Statue at the south entrance to the village, Multisports Centre, Timespan local history museum, Salmon Fishing, and walking on the Old Road with Hairpin Bends 2 miles north.

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The top image right shows the Helmsdale Emigrants Statue at the south side of the Village by the new Bridge.

The Statue is in Cooper Park, erected on 2007, made by the sculpture Gerald Laing, paid for by a local named Dennis MacLeod, a Crofters son who made a fortune in Gold Mines in South Africa.

Crofters from this area were forced off their land by the Sutherlands from 1813, some moving to Helmsdale for Fishing with others emigrating to Canada and America in search of Land to farm.

The Multisports Centre is at the north end of the New Bridge with football, tennis, basketball and many other sports.

The Timespan Museum is a short walk along Shore Street by the Old Bridge and War Memorial, giving information on the Clearances, Fishing and other Local History.

The War Memorial was built in 1924, there is an Ice House from the early 1800s below the Memorial for preserving Salmon, with the River Helmsdale claimed to be one of the top Salmon Rivers in Scotland.

The Old Bridge was built by Thomas Telford in 1811 as he built a new winding road north to Wick and John O Groats.

The New Bridge and New Road were built from 1970, taking out most of the bends.

2 miles north of Helmsdale, at a large Layby on a steep straight incline, there is a path that leads to the Old Road for walking. You can walk round the bends with Cats Eyes and plastic Roadside Markers with red reflectors on them. Locals state the road from this area up to Wick before 1970 was amazing, real steep with Hairpin Bends, some had to be taken in first gear.

The Bridge Hotel was built in 1816 as the Commercial Inn, now used as a Guest House.

Helmsdale Free Church of Scotland is just round to the left at the Bridge Hotel, built from 1890, may be getting converted to a home.

Helmsdale 9 Hole Golf Club is just round from the Church.

The Belgrave Arms Hotel is at the north side of the New Bridge, built in 1819 as a Travelers Inn.

The Bannockburn Inn with a Beer Garden and Meals is also at the north side of the New Bridge, built in the early 1800s.

There are also small local shops in this area, a restaurant and fish and chip shop.

Helmsdale Harbour is at the mouth of the River Helmsdale, on the east side of the New Bridge, built by the Sutherlands at a time they were forcing Crofters off their land, encouraging them to take up fishing for Herring that was booming at that time.

There were about 200 Herring Fishing Boats at Helmsdale by the late 1800s.

The Harbour today is split between Fishing Boats and a Marina with the Fishing Boats going after cod, ling, mackerel, flatfish, haddock, pollack, coley, and wrasse. Mackerel, herring, sprat, and blue whiting are targeted by the larger vessels. Shellfish like crabs, lobsters and scallops are targeted by the smaller boats.

Helmsdale History

1235 - the Earldom of Sutherland was created for William de Moravia (William Sutherland), with the Sutherlands land growing to about 580 square miles.

1401 - the earliest parts of Dunrobin Castle were built for the Sutherlands, 16 miles south of Helmsdale, becoming the main Castle of the Sutherlands.

1488 - Helmsdale Castle was built for the seventh Countess of Sutherland at the south side of Helmsdale Harbour as a Hunting Lodge, where the New Bridge is today, nothing remains of the Castle, just a Stone Marker in the Car Park for the Emigrants Statue.

1567 - the 11th Earl of Sutherland and Wife were poisoned at Helmsdale Castle by Isobel Sinclair, aunt of the Earl as she wanted her own son to become the Earl. Her own son drank the Earls sons poison leading to his death. Isobel killed herself before being executed in Edinburgh. Castle Information

1766 - the one year old Elizabeth Leveson-Gower became the Duchess of Sutherland after her parents died of Typhus, her mothers family had owned Slave Plantations in Jamaica. Elizabeth spent most of her childhood in Edinburgh and London.

1807 - Elizabeth Duches of Sutherland had about 300 people removed from the land in the area of Lairg, 35 miles southeast of Helmsdale to make way for her first big Sheep Farm that would pay more rent than the Crofters.

Many of the Crofters Emigrated to Canada and America rather than move into coastal villages for fishing, villages for coal mining and other industries being set up by the Sutherlands.

1811 - the Old Bridge was built at Helmsdale by Thomas Telford as he built a road north to Wick and John O Groats, this road being full of hairpin bends as it had to cross many high points.

1813 - Clearances at Kildonan, 10 miles east of Helmsdale, led to riots with the Army being called in to keep the peace and oversee those being cleared were paid a fair price for their cattle.

Many Crofters houses had their roofs removed to prevent them returning, or the houses were set on fire.

1814 - the Helmsdale Village seen today was laid out by the Sutherlands by the Harbour, partly to house Crofters being removed from their homes. The Sutherlands tried to get the Crofters to work in the Herring Fishing industry that was booming at the time.

The Herring Industry employed a lot of men for fishing and making barrels to store the fish. Women were mainly employed to gut the fish and pack them into the barrels.

1821 - the large scale clearances had come to an end after the Sutherlands had forcibly removed around 15,000 people from their homes and land. Elizabeth Sutherland Information

1870 - the Railway reached Helmsdale, allowing the Herring to be transferred around the UK in a matter of hours, a lot faster than by ships.

1800s late - there were about 200 Herring Boats operating out of Helmsdale.

1890 - Helmsdale Free Church of Scotland was built.

1895 - the 9 hole Helmsdale Golf Club opened.

1970 - the New Bridge and Road were built through Helmsdale with the remains of Helmsdale Castle being demolished at that time to make way for the Bridge.

1980s - Herring Quotas were introduced due to over fishing, leading to a vast decrease in fishing from ports in northeast Scotland.

2007 - the Emigrants Statue was erected in Cooper Park on the south side of Helmsdale at the New Bridge. There used to be 6 Flag Poles next to the Statue with the Flags of Scotland and the nations most Emigrants went to such as America, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and United Nations, but these seem to have been taken down.

2015 - the North Coast 500 driving route was established, passing through Helmsdale, leading to a vast increase in tourists to the area.

2024 - Helmsdale Multi Use Games Area was opened next to the New Bridge on Shore Street.

Today - Helmsdale Harbour has a few fishing boats mainly for white fish such as cod, haddock and shellfish. People in England eat a lot of Cod, people in Scotland eat a lot of Haddock, with oily fish like Herring and Mackerel mainly exported as few people in the UK like them anymore.

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